Lately I feel like my client’s have become Lady Macbeth only they aren’t worried about spots of blood, they are worried about dark brown patches of skin on their face and hands from too much sun exposure and damage. Uneven pigment presents one of the most difficult challenges to the esthetic world and here’s why. Brown pigment is produced in the skin by melanocytes and the pigment is a means by which the skin protects itself from sun exposure, skin disease and skin traumas. When any of these factors are present irregular pigment can result.
Dermatologists, and skin care professionals have available a variety of products that help to bleach this pigment from the skin and help to protect the skin from further sun damage or trauma, but unfortunately the least amount of exposure can cause more pigment. The best approach to even skin pigment involves a three pronged approach: increased cellular turnover, suppressed production of melanocytes, limited sun exposure.
The quickest and most effective means to reduce pigment is through the use of lasers. This approach although effective can be expensive. I’ve seen people spend the lot’s of money only be disappointed months later when the pigment returns because they failed to continue a regime of limited sun exposure and product usage to maintain an even complexion. If the pigment is created due to hormonal imbalance the pigment can return in as little as 6 months.
If the pigment is more topical, a series of peels can help to reduce the pigment. Again, the issue is maintenance. That’s where the suppression of melanocytes and sunscreen and reduced sun exposure make the difference. Products that help to suppress melanocytes are Hydroquinone, Mequinol, Retinoids, Ascorbic Acid, Licorice Extract, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Kojic Acid, Alcosin, and Arbutin. These ingredients have pluses and minuses in their use topically and in their ability to suppress melanocytes without irritation. (In a future blog I’ll outline how each of these ingredients interact with the skin)
I can’t stress enough the need to limit sun exposure. If you are attempting to even your skin tone it is critical to use a sunscreen daily that blocks UVA rays. These sunscreens should contain avobenzone, oxybenzone, zinc oxide and/or titanium oxide. Additionally, I strongly recommend hats and clothes that are constructed to provide UVA protection, especially if you are in the peak hours of exposure from 10 to 2.
A clear, even complexion is the mark of youth and to achieve it in later years requires a consistent, diligent approach. Lady Macbeth cleansed her hands, but the spots stayed on her conscience never to be removed. With proper treatments and on-going use of good products, and limited sun exposure your pigment spots will be gone.